May 21, 2017
Today was an incredible ride though a canyon with a river running through it. I’ve never seen anything quite like it.
Cycling Stats
Start Point: Pallasca, Cajamarca, Peru
Destination: Chuquicara, Ancash, Peru
79.2 km trip, 4:39 time, 40.6 km/h maximum speed, 16.8 km/h average speed
697 meters climbed, 3305 meters descended, highest elevation 3138 meters
Route Description:
The first about 20K is a steep descent on assorted road conditions. It started out as paved and then was a washed out gravel roads. We think this is only because of the recent flooding and landslides in the area. You descend from over 3000 to 1600m. Then you follow the river and continue with a slight descent with a gradual grade. At the 44K mark there are a small row of houses with a store that sold us some bananas. The elevation at this point is 1182 meters. Then you reach La Galgada at 48K and 1123 meters. This is a bigger town with a coal mine I think. There were no open stores here. At the 53K mark the elevation is 1056 meters. At this point go straight at the junction to stay on the 3N-Peru Ancash highway. At the 78K mark you reach 520 meters elevation and the town of Chuquicara. You cross the bridge here and turn right.
Accommodations:
In the town of Chuquicara there is a guy with rooms across the street from the gas station. There are very simple with private toilet and cold shower. He wanted 30 soles and we got him down to 20. It is a secure area. There are lots of vendors selling fruit here and at least two restaurants. We heard from other blogs that you can stay at the gas station in rooms for 10 soles, however we only read about that after we went through.
What happened…
Amanda writes: Andrew had told me that we would be descending over 3000 meters today and I just couldn’t believe him. Well he was right! The road out of Pallasca started as pavement and then basically just disappeared. This was because of the recent landslides. It was remarkable to see the entire mountain side just gone. And with it went the road. They of course are doing repairs but it really explains why the last few towns we went through were so quiet. I don’t think anyone can get to them.
After we made it past the washed out highway we then returned to some better roads and some great switchbacks for the big descent. After we finished some steep switchbacks we then began a very gradual descent for hours along a river. The river runs through a canyon and the abrupt and dramatic rock formations are incredible. I really have never seen anything like it in my life. I was hoping to record a 3D overhead view of the ride but it didn’t work. You’ll just have to take my word for it that the landscape was incredible.
For the last hour or two of our ride we did face a headwind which slowed our ride. I’ve come to realize its common to have winds in canyons and this one happened to be in our face. As the road was downhill it wasn’t awful, just something we noticed a bit. As we neared the bottom the temperatures rose and then we rolled into the town at the junction of another river and canyon and saw our first bicycle tourist this month! Simon is from Austria and he is nearing the end of a one year trip. We ended up staying at the same place with him and were able to share some fun stories. We also met up with Brett from Surrey, BC which is basically the same area as us. He was cycling from Colombia to Argentina on a motorcycle. Both of these young men were great to chat with and I’m glad we got to meet them. We all sat outside our rooms being swarmed by sand flies and shared some laughs. Meeting people is always great and from time to time it’s nice to chat with someone in English.
Andrew writes: Kids these days. Maybe it’s because I haven’t run into many other cycle-tourists (or overland enthusiasts) in these parts, but somehow it’s just weird talking to 20-somethings who are on tour. They are just in such a different place in life than us. Is it up to me to try and set them straight, or offer them a life-lesson or advice? I can’t seem to help myself. So to all of you kids out there (ok, even you older folks), if you’re going to go on a life-changing journey for a year or so, be sure to take time for yourself everyday to learn something. Take up music, art, poetry, write a book, do something for yourself. Sadly, once you return to “real life” back home, you’ll just find that you don’t have the time for it anymore.