May 19, 2017
Today included some amazing roads that twisted and turned in such a manner that I would not want to be in a car.
Cycling Stats
Start Point: Angasmarca, Cajamarca, Peru
Destination: Abandoned Hotel at river’s edge, Cajamarca, Peru
47.92 km trip, 4:53 time, 39 km/h maximum speed, 9.8 km/h average speed
976 meters climbed, 1787 meters descended, highest elevation 3265 meters
Route Description:
When you leave Angasmarca there is a steep climb for about 3.5 kilometres to 3170 meters. We heard there was another road that was flatter but we couldn’t see it on our map and didn’t risk it. After reaching 3170 meters you then descend to the river at 12.2 kilometres and 2762 meters. At about the 20K mark at 3140 meters you reach the town of Tulpo. There are stores here and someone made us lunch. When you leave Tulpo you climb out of town for 2 kilometres to 3264 meters. After 25.8 kilometres you reach 3085 meters elevation and the town of Mollapata. There is a steep climb out of this town too and we did find one store open to buy a couple of things. After leaving this town there is a Y in the road; turn right. The you descend on switchbacks where the road is now paved. You basically descend for 20 kilometres when you reach the river at just over 2000 meters elevation.
Accommodations:
There are at least four hotels/hospedajes in Mollepata before you begin the descent. We decided against it as we heard there is an abandonded hotel at the rivers edge by the hot springs. After you reach the river you cross the bridge and then continue down stream on the super shitty road that almost looks like a path. There is a small home at the entrance to this road. You follow this road for 1.5 kilometres along the river and then come around a corner and there is in fact an abandoned hotel. There was a family either watching it or squatting when we got there and they welcomed us with open arms. There is a covered area to put your tent and hot springs to swim in just up the trail behind the hotel. If you’re brave you can even sleep in one of the rooms on a bed.
What happened…
Amanda writes: Today started with a little tension in the air. Andrew had an English class to teach that was dependent on good internet connection. For some reason there was no connection in town so we had to leave early to get out of town to get the 4G connection he needed. I don’t mind leaving early but I think Andrew was a bit pre-occupied with getting the connection so we wasn’t himself. Then to add to it, he tells me after we’ve loaded the bikes and are on the street getting ready to pedal that he has found a new route. Anyone who has been reading the blog knows that I like to be informed about where we are going to some extent, so when Andrew wants to change something at the last minute I’m not too keen. We had a brief discussion (argument) and proceeded to go ahead with the original plan. We stopped for a half hour for Andrew to do his class and I enjoyed the break.
We stopped in the town of Tulpo for lunch and found a nice lady to make us lunch. She wasn’t really a restaurant but wanted to make us food as we are obviously travellers from out of Country. It’s always nice when someone opens their doors to you and helps out. When we asked her how much to pay she said whatever we felt was best. Andrew wanted to be incredibly generous and pay 20 soles which is about double what we would normally pay. Again a short discussion ensued and Andrew wouldn’t back down. So pick my battles right? While I get he wants to be generous I’m always wary of it being cocky or disrespectful. I remember in Cuba he was trying to be generous with the woman who fixed his kite and she ended up being offended. I think its a fine line and fortunately this woman for lunch was very grateful.
We continued down a very big descent on this day which included 58 switchbacks! It was incredible to ride on the beautiful paved road and to see the similar switchbacks we would tackle tomorrow. We heard from a friend there is an abandoned hotel near the rivers edge with hot springs. We found it after our long descent and then found a family that was living there. Not sure if they were squatters or taking care of the place, but in any event they welcomed us in. They showed us where best to put our tent under cover, the 4 kids tried to clean up the toilet for us and they were really sweet. It was nice to sleep by the rivers edge even with all the sand flies biting us although it reminded me how noisy a river is. Remind me after we’re done cycling to not buy a house near a river.