April 20, 2015
Facts about Guáimaro
From Lonely Planet Guide to Cuba
Guáimaro would be just another name- less Cuban town if it wasn’t for the famous Guáimaro Assembly of April 1869, which approved the first Cuban constitution and called for emancipation of slaves. The assembly elected Carlos Manuel de Céspedes as president. The events of 1869 are commemorated by a large monument erected in 1940 in the Parque Constitucion. The park also contains the mausoleum of Cuba’s first – and possibly greatest – heroine, Ana Betancourt (1832–1901) from Camagüey, who fought for women’s emancipation alongside the abolition of slavery during the First War of Independence.
Friendly Faces
Miriam: Amanda writes:For the first time since learning Spanish I was able to hold a conversation with someone and understand what they were saying. As an added bonus I was able to converse with them and they understood what I was saying! Miriam was such a delight to speak to. Her pronunciation was clear and concise and she was wonderful. I could have talked with her for hours. Dolores (my Spanish teacher) I hope you’re reading this.
Today’s Highlights
Birds singing in the trees; sun shining in the sky; cars not hassling us on the highway; reaching deep down to go another 20km late in the day
Today’s Lowlights
Arriving in Sibanicu only to be told as foreigners that we couldn’t stay there.
Cycling Stats
Start point: Camaguey, Camaguey, Cuba
Destination: Guiamaro, Las Tunas, Cuba
Distance 80.4 km, 16.7 km/h average speed, 34.1 max. speed
4:49 riding time, 36 degrees maximum temperature
What happened…
Andrew writes:
Leaving Camaguey, I was surprised at how much more city there was for us to ride into. Despite being in the “Historic Centro” and walking around for a bit the day before, we had definitely only scratched the surface. Yet for some reason, I do not find myself drawn to the museums, and the art pieces. I think I hold a perspective that it is all a farce, socialism at work i.e.. everything here is PERFECT. Except it isn’t perfect. I suspect that capitalism has been digging its’ claws in for a few years now, and people, especially younger, are changing. It will be interesting to return here in 15 years to see how it all unfolds.
We settled in for the long haul on the Carreterra Central, the main highway connecting the states of Camaguey and Las Tunas. With the city of Las Tunas over 100km, we were aiming to stay at about the halfway mark in Sibanicu. As always the heat took its toll, especially since we didn’t leave Camaguey until 11am. We took a lot of breaks for ‘refresco’ in order to keep energy levels up. This sugary drink costs 1 or 2 pesos ($0.05/0.10) per glass, and I typically order it 10 pesos at a time. Amanda and I then split it up, and pour it into our sippy-cups on our handlebars.
Nothing really stood out for me today. I think I expected the terrain to be more flat, but it seemed more like rolling hills, and always more up than down. The headwind was slight, but it was definitely there. I look forward to having a tailwind in another few days, which we should have for the rest of our trip!
The only drama occurred late in the day, when we reached Sibanicu after 3 hours or so, and 50km. We knew that there were no Casa Particulars, but we were expecting either a hotel or campismo (basically a motel). Riding through the town, there were lots of places to get food, and I started salivating at the thought of what would surely be an incredible culinary experience, and all for less than $1! Except when I went into the hotel, the clerk explained to me about 5 times, in 5 different ways, that as foreigners, they were not licensed to accept us as customers. Argh. We rode away, dejected. The campismo was closed.
Thus began the 28km sojourn to Guiamaro. Our spirits were low, and our bums were sore because, for some reason, the road was striped in corduroy lines, perpendicular to the highway. Spread every 3 meters, with about a 2-inch dip in each, it made for a very bumpy ride. The end of which, 2 hours later, saw us in Guiamaro. The Casa Particular was on the main highway, and since we always create such a stir when we arrive in a town, the door was opened before we got to it.
I had to wait 10 minutes before I could see the room. I think it was previously occupied, but obviously not by someone paying in $CUC like I was. I checked it out, we checked in. We went down the street and grabbed some pizza and spaghetti, neither of which were what North Americans would consider either pizza, OR, spaghetti. The guy ripped me off for 5 pesos ($0.25) but I guess it’s to be expected from time to time since Amanda and I are so rich here.
Amanda did a bunch of stuff in the room when we got back, and I practiced the harmonica in the living room. I don’t mind the heat or the humidity as much as she does it seems…which is weird, because back in Canada, Amanda is always cold.
Amanda writes:
Today we spent almost five hours in the saddle and that provided me with ample time to reflect upon life. I found myself looking at life from a broad perspective because of people’s reaction to us. Mostly we are stared at, some people point and us and whisper words to each other. Most people don’t say hi or wave back at us and everyone thinks we’re rich. I suppose it must look that way when we’re spending what is a months salary for most of them on one night in a casa particular (B&B).
And so I reflected on my life. Growing up I was raised in what is considered by most as an affluent neighbourhood. I was never denied anything in my life. I got anything I ever asked for, I was allowed to play any sport and instrument no matter the cost and I was never left wanting more food or a nicer home. Heck we even had a pool when I was growing up. I will venture out and say I was spoiled. And the icing on the cake fore me is my Mom loved me unconditionally. She would do anything for me and because of this; I was a rich kid.
As an adult I worked hard and earned good money. I always lived in a beautiful home with everything I ever wanted. I had a shiny car, all the bicycles I wanted and again; was never left wanting more. Bonus as an adult was that I have a amazing husband who loves me, including my imperfections. Double bonus is that we have an incredible group of friends with similar interests and live in the same way we did.
The part that baffles some people is where we are at now. Andrew and I gave up everything to travel the world. We are essentially unemployed and homeless. We cherish the hard days where we struggle to find a place to sleep and search for food to eat. Perhaps it makes us happy because this is our choice. Some of our friends and family would not enjoy the uncertainty that comes with this lifestyle and may consider us poor now. I however tend to agree with the Cuban’s here; we’re rich!
We’re not rich in the way they think we are, we are rich because we are doing exactly what we want to do. We gave up all the comforts of a home with a big screen TV and shiny car so that we could ride and see the world. I take great comfort in knowing that our friends and family remain where they are and always will be there for us if the shit hits the fan. And perhaps it is knowing that, that we are able to relish this experience for what it is. We are rich because we are creating wonderful memories and adventures that will stay with us forever. The shiny car, the TV, the ocean view home; I don’t miss them. Sure we miss family and friends and hopefully they will be there when we return. Until then Andrew and I will create more amazing memories on this journey and I will continue enjoying being the richest woman I know on a $30 per day budget.