April 21, 2015
Facts about Las Tunas
From Lonely Planet Guide to Cuba
If it was down to sights and historical attractions alone, it’s doubtful many people would bother with Las Tunas. It’s a sleepy agricultural town that seems like it hasn’t woken up to the fact it’s been a provincial capital almost 40 years. Perhaps the only saving grace is its’ reputation for being the Oriente’s capital of sex tourism.
Friendly Faces
Alan: Despite not “needing” to ride very far to Las Tunas, we still tried to get an early start. We were happy to have been thwarted however, by Alan. He was checking into the room we were leaving, and he had shown up for breakfast. Originally from British Gibraltar, he spoke english, and having been in Cuba for 3 years, spanish too. He was a great person to talk to about the current situation in Cuba, as well as learn some new vocabulary. For instance, he thought that what happened in San Antonio, was because the town-official (Jefe) really was concerned about our safety, and Alan also thinks that if we are to wild-camp again, we might consider hiring someone to watch over us, like we had in San Antonio. Things are changing in Cuba, he said.
Today’s Highlights
Talking in english with Alan at breakfast; arriving in Las Tunas early; fixing the kite, talking with everyone during the afternoon; fixing the kite again.
Today’s Lowlights
Blowing two huge holes in the kite trying to fix it.
Cycling Stats
Start point: Guiamaro, Las Tunas, Cuba
Destination: Las Tunas, Las Tunas, Cuba
Distance 44.9 km, 17.3 km/h average speed, 29.7 max. speed
2:35 riding time
What happened…
Andrew writes:
The ride today was pleasant. Despite being on the “plains” of Cuba, we are definitely gaining in elevation as we approach the Sierra Maestra. We’ll have to cross the 300m pass sometime in the next week, as we make our way along the south-east coast of Cuba.
I stopped for ‘refresco’ only once. A man at the bus stop had a bucket with ice water in it. Inside the bucket were beer bottles, filled with carbonated juice of some sort. I paid my 2 pesos ($0.10), drank my drink on the spot, and then of course, handed him back his bottle. It was tasty! We also stopped along the way to try a fruit that looks like a plum, except when it is green it tastes more like a crab apple, and when it is ripe and yellow, tastes like..a..plum.
We arrived in Last Tunas in no time at all, and found the Casa, again, right on the main road. While we were checking in, I spied an old woman (blank) working on a sewing machine. I started to talk to her, and determined very quickly, that she was a master at the craft. So while Amanda was checking out our room, and handling the paperwork, I had already pulled out my kite, to see about getting the hole in the canopy from when I was in Vancouver, repaired. “No hay problema!”, she said. After a quick lunch from down the street, including pizza and ice cream, and fresh mango juice, I returned to help with the kite repairs.
First, I removed the bladder and re-patched the hole, since it had started to leak air while I was in Cayo Coco. Next I took everything over to the work bench and helped Aidee and her mother, handle the large, heavy kite on the small machine. We got it figured out, but later Aidee admitted that it was harder than she thought. The cost for all this? $1. Back home it would have cost $75, or more! Finally, we put everything back together. I made a joke to the ladies, about needing two chickens so we could sacrifice them to the gods, and pray for good luck. We had a good chuckle, and everyone was happy. I grabbed the pump and started pumping, when suddenly, BANG! My soaring spirit deflated faster than my withering kite; I knew exactly what had happened.
In the process of pulling the kite bladder back through the leading edge, it had gotten twisted, and when I started pumping the kite full of air, it bunched up and ruptured. We pulled everything apart and took stock of the damage. Two gigantic snake-bite holes, each one 2-3” long, nasty, jagged-things.
”I told you we needed to sacrifice two chickens!!”, I shouted in English, to no one in particular, since only I could understand what I was saying.
I went upstairs. Amanda had heard the kite burst, but she was super-cool about it. I was not upset, but sad I guess. I knew that I probably needed a new bladder, and not only was it going to cost a lot of money, but it meant that I was going to lug around 25lbs of kite surfing gear in Cuba for nothing. If only I had paid the $75-100 back when I was in Canada to get it done. If only I had taken my time putting everything back together. If only… My mind wandered, and ended up thinking about the contents of my kite-repair kit. I jumped off the bed, and searched the kit, and lo and behold, I thought I had enough materials to attempt a repair. What did I have to lose!?
The ladies helped me fix the impossible. We pumped everything back up and it appeared to hold air, at least for a time. I figure it is as good as it’s going to get, at least until I get back to Canada. I’m happy that I tried, and hope that I can get out on the water next week when we get to the coast. I’m also really happy that I got to practice my spanish for several hours, with spanish-speakers, and for the most part the communication was pretty easy. This was while we were all attempting to do something we had never done before! That part was pretty cool.
For the first time during our trip, we paid for dinner at the Casa Particular. $14CUC ($14USD) and while it was really good to eat, and it was great having our hosts there to talk to, I still feel weird paying like $0.50 for lunch, and then 20x more for dinner, for no other reason than..I dunno, it’s just weird.
I wrapped up my night, the way I usually do, writing a bit, reading a bit, and practicing music. The tin whistle tonight, instead of the harmonica. This trip really has my creative juices flowing, I’m loving it!
Amanda writes:
Another uninspiring day on the main highway. Traffic again was wonderfully accommodating for bicycles. I almost feel like I’m accustomed now to the fact that the majority of traffic is horse drawn carts and bicycles. Having a car is rare.
We arrived in Las Tunas in good time and found the casa that Miriam recommended for us when we visited her in Camaguey. The home owner here in Las Tunas confirmed that Miriam had called them. It was nice to have the warm welcome. I handled the checking in and communication this time so I could practice my Spanish. I was looking at the room and getting our passports and turned around and Andrew was sitting beside a woman and her sewing machine with his kite out. I had to smile. He was hoping to find someone to sew the kite and lo and behold; our host had one in her home. Her daughter was also cutting hair in the home so it seems like they keep busy.
Andrew worked on his kite most of the afternoon and I took the opportunity to study Spanish and organize my panniers in the comfort of an air conditioned room. I want to speak the language so much that I figured studying more vocabulary and reminding myself of words would help. At dinner it didn’t seem to help! So frustrating … I think my brain sometimes gets overloaded. I know I’ll get it one day, it will just flow. Until then I’ll keep working at it.
Tomorrow is a big day; 95 kilometres to Manzanillo and the Coast. We have breakfast scheduled for 7am and hope to be on the road by 8am to avoid as much of the heat as we can.